Laminate flooring calculator
Work out how much to rip off your first row of laminate so the first and last rows come out the same width, and the last row isn't a thin sliver against the wall. It also works out how many packs to buy, how to stagger the joints and what else you need.
Measure across the room, at right angles to the way the boards will run. Rooms are rarely square, so measure at both ends and in the middle.
Measure the face width, not including the tongue. Click two boards together and measure from the long edge of one to the same edge of the other. Box sizes like "193mm" usually include the tongue.
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- Rip off the tongue side
- First row width
- Full rows in between
- Last row width
How many packs to buy
Add one area for a simple room. For an L-shaped room, split it into rectangles and add each one.
10% for straight lay, 15% for diagonal or herringbone.
- Floor area
- Including waste
- Packs to buy
Staggering the end joints
300mm is common. Check your product's instructions.
Wall to wall, along the boards. Checks the end pieces.
Underlay and accessories
Leave blank to work it out from one area.
How this calculator works
Laminate is laid in rows across the room. The expansion gap at each wall comes off the room width first, then the calculator sees how many full boards fit and what's left over for the last row.
Room width used: the narrowest of your measurements.
Usable width = room width − 2 × expansion gap.
Full rows = usable width ÷ board width, rounded down. Leftover = usable width − full rows × board width.
Balanced first and last rows = (leftover + board width) ÷ 2.
Rip off the first row = board width − balanced width = (board width − leftover) ÷ 2.
If the leftover is at least the thinnest last row you'll accept, you can lay a full board as the first row and cut only the last row. If it's thinner, one full row is swapped for two part rows: the first row is ripped and the last row gets wider, so both end up the same width. You lay the same number of boards either way.
For example, a 3,000mm room with 10mm gaps leaves 2,980mm. With 192mm boards that's 15 full rows (2,880mm) and 100mm left over. That's more than a third of a board, so no rip is needed, but you could also rip 46mm off the first row so both edge rows are 146mm.
Packs are the floor area plus the waste allowance, divided by the coverage on the box and rounded up. Beading is the perimeter minus about 800mm per doorway, plus 10% for mitres and offcuts.
Tips for laying laminate
- Acclimatise the boards. Leave the packs flat, unopened, in the room for at least 48 hours before you start, so they settle to its temperature and humidity.
- Choose the direction first. Boards usually look best running parallel to the longest wall, or towards the main window so light runs along them. Work out the rip for that direction.
- Rip the tongue side of the first row. The cut edge goes against the wall, hidden by the skirting or beading, and the groove faces into the room for the next row.
- Measure the last row in place. Measure the gap at several points along the wall and take off the expansion gap. If the wall isn't straight, scribe the line onto the board.
- Undercut door frames. Lay an offcut of board on a piece of underlay against the frame and cut along the top of it with a flush-cut saw, so the floor slides underneath.
- Check the manufacturer's expansion gap. Most say 8 to 10mm at every wall, pipe and doorframe, and big rooms may need more or a break with a threshold strip.
- Mix boards from several packs. It spreads the pattern so you don't get the same grain repeating next to itself.
Frequently asked questions
How much should I cut off the first row of laminate?
Enough that the first and last rows end up the same width, which is (leftover + board width) ÷ 2. You only need to do this when the last row would be very thin. If it's at least a third to half a board, you can usually lay a full first row.
Why shouldn't the last row be thin?
A thin strip is hard to cut and fit, it has little click joint to hold it, and it can lift or break. It also looks odd against a full-width first row on the other side of the room.
Which side of the first row do I cut?
Cut the tongue side off. That edge goes against the wall, so the groove side faces the room ready for the next row. Some manufacturers say to remove the tongue from the first row even when you don't rip it.
How do I measure the board width?
Measure the visible face only, not the tongue. The easiest way is to click two boards together and measure from the edge of one to the matching edge of the other.
What if my room isn't square?
Enter the width at both ends and in the middle. The calculator uses the narrowest and warns you if they differ by more than 5mm. The last row will then be wider at one end, so cut it to fit along its length rather than at one width.
How much waste should I allow?
About 10% for a normal straight lay, and 15% or more for diagonal, herringbone or rooms with lots of corners. It's better to have a spare pack than run out and find the next batch is a slightly different shade.
How far apart should the end joints be?
Most laminate needs end joints at least 300mm apart in neighbouring rows, but check your product. A pattern like full board, two thirds, one third keeps them apart, and you can start a row with the offcut from the end of the row before if it's long enough.
Does it save my measurements?
No. Everything is calculated in your browser and nothing is stored or sent anywhere.
Results are estimates to help you plan. Always follow the flooring manufacturer's instructions for expansion gaps, joint offsets and underlay, and check measurements in the room before cutting.